The following is a brief and simple description of my construction of a Vans RV8 aircraft. Scroll down to the labels for a complete log of each section. Enjoy! -JT *This blog is for entertainment purposes only* *DREAM IT, BUILD IT, FLY IT*
The induction kit mounted.
Push/Pull cable routed to the cockpit. *Note- The three gray metal brackets that needed to be fabricated, one for each clamp shown. The end clamp is a "B"nut that rotates as the cable is pushed or pulled. Available from ACS.
Alternate air door Closed.
Alternate air door OPEN. Pretty slick and ingenious if I may say so...
Here is the NEW James Aircraft induction system. This kit protects your investment by providing full-time filtered RAM air, while increasing manifold pressure. This means I should able to go even faster and higher with better fuel economy. Sounds like a winner right? It even has provisions for alternate air downstream of the filter. Sweet! Now, let's see how it all goes together.... *Note- The metal parts had to be fabricated.
The top two bolts are 1/4 x20 drilled socket head type from McMaster- Carr. The bottom two are the standard hex type and needed to be shaved slightly for the fit. *See why below. 
K&N High Performance Filter in place. *Note-You will need to shave the flange of the filter with a bandsaw, then clean it up with a belt sander.
RAM AIR Induction system in place. I painted it with some white high temp Rustoleum paint, good to 1200deg F.
I went with 5" diameter CEET aircraft ducting for the plenum intake tubes. 
Right side intake lined of with right plenum inlet. *A rubber tube will connect the two together soon. 
Left side intake lined up with left plenum inlet. I also have good clearance between the plenum and the top cowling all around. I was sweating this for a while, as I had fit the plenum before the cowling. It turned out perfect... Tip-Do lots of research before trimming your plenum.
Side view. What little gap remains will be filled with high temp RTV.
Aft side. A good snug fit.
The front gap was filled with 1/2" square high temp rubber. *The little gap at the top will be filled with high temp RTV.
Left Side Bottom
Top View. Here you will notice the blue plastic pass throughs I purchased from ACS. You can also see how I ran the fuel line up to a 45 degree fitting for the connection to the fuel divider.
Right Side Bottom
Right Rear View. I wrapped the wires with high temp spiral wrap to help clean things up and prevent chaffing. |
| Final Install with High Temp RTV applied |
I opted to use steel -8 elbow fittings after reading about an accident where an aluminum cooler fitting broke off. The steel ones are also much easier to remove and resist galling too. I beefed the cooler up in a number of ways to help prevent baffle cracking. I hope it works. I may add a brace inside the baffle as well...
My son was in awe of the massive truck that stopped at our house today. Little did he know, we would just be getting one special box. The one missing link to completing the plane!
I've been suffering from the FLU all week, so no building going on. On a positive note, Here It Is! My Hartzell 2 Blade "Blended Airfoil" 72" metal prop . The form I sent in said, "Expect a 12-16 week lead time for delivery." The truck showed up in less than a week, from Ohio. I'm extremely excited, but I won't be able to touch it for another week. 
Plenum Progress.
Blast Tubes(2 Mags, Alt, Fuel Pump), and Fuel Penetration. I'm waiting on a 45 degree fitting for the fuel divider.... Aerosport Power is sending me one, free of charge, Yes, They Rock. Thanks Sue!
Bottom Baffles secured. Tapping the steel rods to 6/32 was tedious, but doable. I put a bead of high temp RTV under the baffle curves to prevent chaffing.
Input Scat Tube connected to the heater muff. 
After all the baffle pieces were trimmed, fitted, and modified, I sent them off to be powder coated. I went with Tex Black and it turned out Awesome! Thanks for the tip Matt Dralle!
Right Front, modified for my Sam James Plenum(not shown).
Right Side-
Right Rear- This is where the scat hose will connect that leads to the heat muff. You may also notice one of the holes where the spark plug wires will pass through.
The round holes at the top are where my cooling blast tubes will be connected.
My son, Ford. Age 3 1/2. He's ready to Fly!
Left Front. Modified for the James Plenum coming soon.
It's my understanding that you only need a sniffle valve if you have a fuel injected engine. It is designed to help prevent flooding. The fitting opens when cold and closes when hot. The rubber hose is attached to a piece of 3/8 soft alum tubing. It runs aft, passes through a high temp adel clamp, and exits near the exhaust.
