Final Pitot Connections



Vans pitot tube, left wing




View from outboard inspection bay, left wing




View from middle inspection bay, left wing





I used a brass compression fitting to mate the polyethylene to the aluminum tubing. *Thanks to Jeff Johnson for the tip.

Wing Incidence is Set!

Here, a guide is being used to ensure a perfect drill. *Use core drills and/or reamers to get it up to the right size.

We used tape to mark off the edge distance required and drilled a #30 pilot hole.

We cut the block spacer slightly bigger than what the plans call for and used a file and sander to shave it down to 2" 51/64. (Yeah, I know..that is a ridiculous measurement). Then we layed the level and board exactly on the fwd part of the main spar flange and rear spar. Next we moved the rear wing up/down to center the level and clamped it into place. *Note-The picture is a reenactment of the actual setting, the spacer block maybe off a hair.

First, we verified everything was level all around. We checked the fuselage longerons and aft deck too. Next, we rechecked everything again.. Then, we squared the wings and checked for sweep by dropping 4 plum bobs off the wings. Next, we marked a piece of tape then placed it directly underneath the plum bobs. This made the checking of the horizontal straight line much easier...

Here is a link to ease the Wing Incidence process- http://vansaircraft.com/pdf/Wing_%20Incidence.pdf

Left/Right Wing Access Panels Installed

I riveted the nutplates around the access holes then screwed the panels in place....Yeah, I know they'll have to come back off, but it completes the wing! *The middle access hole has the plate screwed into place, all nice and flush.

Left Wing Outboard Bottom Skin Riveted/ Left Wing Done!

3 more hours of riveting and we are done with the Left Wing. (excluding the Fiberglass Tips)
Riveting the outboard bottom skin was a challenge. We used safety wire and duct tape at various times to help peal the skin back while we worked outward... Aileron, Flap, and Wing mounting coming up!

Left Inboard Botttom Skin Riveted

I couldn't find enough people to come over and lift the fuselage today, so Udo and I tackled the left inboard bottom skin. This doesn't look like much, but it was a real hurdel... We figured out that using safety wire to help peel the skin back helped out tremendously. I bucked while Udo shot. After three hours we were done. Thanks again Udo for all your expertise.

Dad and his little princess....

Aileron Bell Cranks Installed

You have to ream out the AN4 bolt that passes through the bell crank. Be sure to put a little grease on the bushing before final install. Torque all nuts and bolts.

Installed Pitot Tube

Pitot Tube Installed. Be sure to torque all fittings.


First I installed the grommets in the ribs then I ran the line. Making the bend inside the wing is a bit of a trick, but doable. Use a tube bender and aviation flaring tool to do the job. Don't forget to place the AN sleeve and nut in place before flaring the end. Thanks to Brian and Lee for the tool loan.

Cut Push Rods to Length

I had to use a hacksaw to cut the rods. Check the plans for the specific length. Be careful, there's not a lot of extra rod length.
I also deburred the ends, scuffed, and acid etched the larger rods. The small ones were already powder coated on the outside. Tape up one end on each rod and it's time to prime. (interior and exterior)

Final Riveting of Aileron Gap Seals and Flap Braces

Left Ail Gap Seal

Left Flap Brace

Right Ail Gap Seal

Right Flap Brace.

Ran Wiring Conduit

I used 3/4" plastic conduit for the electric wires to pass through. See Vans Catalog

Drilled Out Aileron Gap Seal and Flap Brace

Aileron Gap Seal getting drilled out. There is some lite filing that needs to be done to prevent interference with other components and rivet heads. I will also debur,scuff,dimple, and prime the parts.

Flap Brace clecoed and ready to drill.

Top Skins Riveted / Built Wing Cradle

I got Greg H. to come over and help me finish riveting the top main skins. I also built a cradle to house the wings, complete w/ casters to help me move it around.

The left wing off the jig and in the cradle. It looks awesome!

One of Two Top Main Skins Riveted

Here is the first top skin all riveted in place. Don't forget the skin doubler underneath the inboard side and pay attention to the rivet call outs.

Vinyl removed from the finished pieces. I couldn't take it anymore. It looks glorious and it isn't even polished!
Happy Thanksgiving 2007!

Shimmed Leading Edge

I drilled out the inboard leading edge rivets and installed several small shims to eliminate the "pillowing"of the fuel tank. Here is a close up after the shims were installed. I think it turned out very well.

Nice and tight seam between the tank and leading edge.

Left Tank Fitted in Place!

Note- Go to Left Fuel Tank Label, on main page, for tank construction details.
Getting ready to rivet the first top main skin into place. The wing walk doubler is underneath the inboard skin edge. -Side note, the blue protective vinyl will soon be coming off the skins!

Tank Complete! I will test it for leaks in a week or so, after the proseal has had plenty of time to cure.

Here is a pic of the inboard fuel tank. I sealed the access plate and all of the fittings. Afterward, I touched up the scratches and bare areas with rattle can aviation primer.

Left Leading Edge Assembly Complete

I finished the LE assembly by squeezing 426 flush rivets along the top and bottom aft edge. Watch out for the rivet call outs.
*Note- When riveting here, be careful not to let the rivet flip the main rib flanges up. Use clamps, clecos, etc. to help prevent this from happening. You want the flanges to be snug against the main spar.

Left Leading Edge Assembly Clecoed To Main Spar

Preparing to rivet the assembly to the main spar. First I clecoed everything together and checked the fit. I noticed the tie down eye hole was a little snug, so I widened it out with a rat tail file. I then deburred it and reclecoed everything. All is well.

Close up. I also clecoed the bottom rib flanges to the main spar. Riveting here will be the first step, as soon as help arrives. I can already tell this is going to be a challenge. Its nearly impossible to get an offset rivet shank dead center on the rivet head. After doing a little research, I decided to grind down one side of my offset rivet shank. We shall see if that resolves the problem.

Installed The Left Tie Down Bracket

No biggie here. Just make sure the tie down eye screw hole is in the correct position and tighten everything up. Be sure to torq the bolts to the correct setting and don't forget the washers.(refer to Vans manual for torq settings).

Left Leading Edge Riveted

Here she is, all riveted together. I haven't felt this good since I finished the Horizontal Stabilizer. Special thanks to my friend Greg H. for helping me buck a few rivets.

Here's a shot of the inside all primed up and ready for action. Looks pretty professional if I do say so myself. * Note-The little grey blemishes, on the bottom right, are from the duct tape I wrapped around the bucking bar. They are not scratches and didn't penetrate the primer coating.

Another outside shot. Here you can see the splice/joint strip that will connect to the fuel tank via #8 screws into the nutplates.

Final Left Leading Edge Assembly

OK, I've primed all the remaining skins and parts for the left wing. Now it's time to put things together for good. First, I dimpled the leading edge ribs. I made quick work of this with my pneumatic squeezer(sorry, no pic). Now put the leading edge assembly back into the cradle and cleco it together.

Make sure everything is lined up and straight. Don't forget to put the joining strip into place on the inboard side.

Getting ready to rivet. Ensure all ribs are in there proper position.