Custom Glove Box for the Fuselage

 Here is my version of the fuselage IPAD/Glove Box Mod.  Yes, it took some time to get everything trimmed and fitted, but I think it's worth it!  

The door is attached with a piano hinge on the bottom and held closed by a flush Hartwell latch. There is a doubler that surrounds the top and sides. Pretty Slick!

The Hidden Hinge Oil Door. Pt.2 (Finished)

 Door open.

 Ava, age 7, is glad this part of the project is complete! Me too...

 Inside view.

Door closed.   Nice and Flush...

The "Screwless Spinner"

 Pictured is my "Screwless Spinner".  This is a modification that gives the spinner a clean look and makes wiping off bugs a snap.   The primer gray filler plates will be painted at a later date.

The Hidden Hinge Oil Door Pt.1

With the push of a button, the spring loaded door pops up and allows perfect access to the dip stick. Nice!

The .025 doubler is prosealed and riveted into place. The top of the doubler hangs out an 1/8", while the sides are 1/4". The inside portion is 1/2" all around. *Note- The open hole portion of the pic is showing a piece of carpet laying on the support table.

I added a .032 mild steel doubler, to the bottom, as a striker for the camlock.

Here is my 5"x5" oil door. The door itself was fabbed out of .050 alum. *Tip- Save the fiberglass cut-out door as a template to get the alum door bent correctly. Also, be careful with your trimming, as you want a nice fitting door that locks tight.

Get your hidden hinge at http://www.nonstopaviation.com/

MK3 Alternate Air System

The induction kit mounted.

Push/Pull cable routed to the cockpit. *Note- The three gray metal brackets that needed to be fabricated, one for each clamp shown. The end clamp is a "B"nut that rotates as the cable is pushed or pulled. Available from ACS.

Alternate air door Closed.

Alternate air door OPEN. Pretty slick and ingenious if I may say so...

MK3 Injected Filtration RAM Air Induction System

Here is the NEW James Aircraft induction system. This kit protects your investment by providing full-time filtered RAM air, while increasing manifold pressure. This means I should able to go even faster and higher with better fuel economy. Sounds like a winner right? It even has provisions for alternate air downstream of the filter. Sweet! Now, let's see how it all goes together.... *Note- The metal parts had to be fabricated.

The top two bolts are 1/4 x20 drilled socket head type from McMaster- Carr. The bottom two are the standard hex type and needed to be shaved slightly for the fit. *See why below.

*Note- The added metal plate underneath the bolt heads is for additional support and not called for in the instructions.

K&N High Performance Filter in place. *Note-You will need to shave the flange of the filter with a bandsaw, then clean it up with a belt sander.

RAM AIR Induction system in place. I painted it with some white high temp Rustoleum paint, good to 1200deg F.

Final Fitting of the Plenum

Right side intake lined of with right plenum inlet. *A rubber tube will connect the two together soon.

Left side intake lined up with left plenum inlet. I also have good clearance between the plenum and the top cowling all around. I was sweating this for a while, as I had fit the plenum before the cowling. It turned out perfect... Tip-Do lots of research before trimming your plenum.

Side view. What little gap remains will be filled with high temp RTV.

Aft side. A good snug fit.

The front gap was filled with 1/2" square high temp rubber. *The little gap at the top will be filled with high temp RTV.

Fitting the Cowling Pt.8 Hinge Pins

My custom fabricated Cowl Hinge Pins. 8 Ball style!

Right Side hinge pin installed.

Left Side hinge pin installled.

Baffles and Plenum Pt.1

Intial fit of the side/rear baffles and Sam James plenum.

Baffles after the first trim.

I will need to do some fab and mod work to the front inlet baffles. Hummmm....

Forward Baggage Door Strut Installed

Door closed and locked!

Door open.

LP4-3 rivets. A little trimming was needed to keep the doubler from hitting the rivets. Not much though...

Here is the stainless steel spring strut that I ordered from McMaster-Carr. It is the perfect strut for the RV8 forward baggage door. It holds the door open and it holds it closed. Use two #8 screws and nutplates to mount the bottom portion 8" from the fuselage side. Use (3)LP-4-3 blind rivets to secure the top portion at 11/16" from the bottom of the door.

The part number is:11615A14 $34 usd

*Special Thanks to Matt Dralle for the great tip.

Glare Shield Vinyl Install

I've set the compass in place just for effect. You may also notice my custom mini defroster/avionics cooling vents. There are 3 on each side of center.

Get yours here- http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/

Metal Windscreen Fairing

Here, the finished bezel/fairing is painted white with countersunk washers and #8 screws

Update-Here you can see the crease/pocket I made with a joggle tool. I placed a rectangular piece of anti-chafe tape on the inside to ease any friction between the canopy and the metal windscreen bezel. It fits like a glove! Sweet!

Here, the shrinker marks have been smoothed out with the scotchbrite wheel. I also tapped the rollbar for #8 screws.

I added rubber shims as necessary to match the fit of the canopy. I will fill the gaps soon with Sikaflex or silicone.

I used a shrinker/stretcher to get the fit right on the .025 alum fairing.

Poster board template. Lots of adjusting and trimming.

Well, I decided to try my hand at crafting a metal fairing.