The Cowling is Done!

Sorry for the dark Iphone pics,but it's all I have for now. I'll update with brighter pics soon!

Applied Cowl Heat Protector

 I applied a self adhesive heat reflective material to the inside of the cowl. This should prevent any cowl burn from the exhaust pipes.  It also makes wiping up oil spills a snap.  Product available from Vans.

The Hidden Hinge Oil Door. Pt.2 (Finished)

 Door open.

 Ava, age 7, is glad this part of the project is complete! Me too...

 Inside view.

Door closed.   Nice and Flush...

The "Screwless Spinner"

 Pictured is my "Screwless Spinner".  This is a modification that gives the spinner a clean look and makes wiping off bugs a snap.   The primer gray filler plates will be painted at a later date.

Finishing the Cowling...Pt.5

While the paint on the fiberglass is only temporary, it will certainly get me through the testing phase of the airplane.  I will decide on a final paint color and scheme at a later date... Thanks for spraying the pieces for me Ryan!

Finishing the Cowling...Pt.4

 Final tie coat of epoxy primer.  Next, sanding with 600 grit and prep for paint.

Finishing the Cowling...Pt.3

After more sanding (220 grit over the epoxy primer) and more pin hole filling, the cowl was shot with Evercoat Feather Fill G2 high build primer/surfacer. 

It looks really nice...  Thanks again to Ryan for shooting the primer.

*Coming up next? You guessed it: more sanding...this time 320-400grit.

 

Finishing the Cowling...Pt.2

Well, Here's how it looks after the first coat of two-part epoxy primer.  Not too bad....

The 2 coats of epoxy resin, did a fair job of filling in the pin holes, but there are still a few that need to be addressed.  This was to be expected, so overall I'm very pleased with how things are coming along. Next, will be more sanding, then a shot of High Build primer/surfacer. 

*Special Thanks to Ryan for shooting the primer in the paint booth.

The spinner is looking exceptional.... 

Finishing the Cowling...Pt.1

I think we are ready to seal the epoxy resin layers with some epoxy primer.

I'm sanding the epoxy resin coats with 100 grit sandpaper.

Outside, coming along nicely... lot's of work here, kids!

After the resin was dry, I started sanding, both inside and out.  I'm not too concerned

with making the inside pretty.

 Cowl cleaned,sanded, and coated with epoxy resin thinned with acetone.  I used a squeegee to help fill in the pinholes. You don't want a thick layer, it will only lead to more sanding....

Tip-Use a small roller to level out the squeegee marks.

*This step was done twice.

The Hidden Hinge Oil Door Pt.1

With the push of a button, the spring loaded door pops up and allows perfect access to the dip stick. Nice!

The .025 doubler is prosealed and riveted into place. The top of the doubler hangs out an 1/8", while the sides are 1/4". The inside portion is 1/2" all around. *Note- The open hole portion of the pic is showing a piece of carpet laying on the support table.

I added a .032 mild steel doubler, to the bottom, as a striker for the camlock.

Here is my 5"x5" oil door. The door itself was fabbed out of .050 alum. *Tip- Save the fiberglass cut-out door as a template to get the alum door bent correctly. Also, be careful with your trimming, as you want a nice fitting door that locks tight.

Get your hidden hinge at http://www.nonstopaviation.com/

Fitting the Cowling Pt.8 Hinge Pins

My custom fabricated Cowl Hinge Pins. 8 Ball style!

Right Side hinge pin installed.

Left Side hinge pin installled.

Fitting the Cowling Pt.7 Inlet Ring Work

Right Ring. I added some West systems epoxy resin and 410 filler to the sides and sanded them smooth.

Left Ring

Small induction ring. Filter and airbox coming soon....

Fitting the Cowling Pt.6 Fiberglass!!!! Arrrrgh!

For each side, I layed up 6 pieces of 8-9 oz. fiberglass cloth. This will allow me to make a flange for two nutplates on each side. I used packaging tape and car wax to keep the top half from sticking. Tip- Be sure to roughen up the area that the fiberglass will adhere to with some sandpaper. Afterward, wipe clean with acetone.

The nutplates are installed. Looks pretty good!

Next, The inlet rings were fitted and taped in place. I followed this by pouring a slurry of resin and flox around the rings. The larger rings are waxed so they can be removed, the smaller ring is not waxed, therefore; it's permanent. I used some small shims(waxed),alum tape, and rtv to make a divider between the two halves. Hopefully, the two big rings will not be stuck after the cure time. *Note- I did the large inlet rings one at a time. The right ring is done in this picture and the left one is in the curing process, hence the .025 shim dividers.

Here is the right side, bottom half cowl, after removing the ring. I will need to trim and fill a small portion, but overall it's good to go! You will notice the keyed groove in the hardened resin. This keeps the ring in place and will allow a nice flush finish at the lip of the cowl.

*UPDATE- You only need to pour enough resin to fill the key. I poured to much here and ended up having to shave down the resin in order to get the hose clamps to fit correctly. See later photos.