Wing Incidence is Set!

Here, a guide is being used to ensure a perfect drill. *Use core drills and/or reamers to get it up to the right size.

We used tape to mark off the edge distance required and drilled a #30 pilot hole.

We cut the block spacer slightly bigger than what the plans call for and used a file and sander to shave it down to 2" 51/64. (Yeah, I know..that is a ridiculous measurement). Then we layed the level and board exactly on the fwd part of the main spar flange and rear spar. Next we moved the rear wing up/down to center the level and clamped it into place. *Note-The picture is a reenactment of the actual setting, the spacer block maybe off a hair.

First, we verified everything was level all around. We checked the fuselage longerons and aft deck too. Next, we rechecked everything again.. Then, we squared the wings and checked for sweep by dropping 4 plum bobs off the wings. Next, we marked a piece of tape then placed it directly underneath the plum bobs. This made the checking of the horizontal straight line much easier...

Here is a link to ease the Wing Incidence process- http://vansaircraft.com/pdf/Wing_%20Incidence.pdf

Right Outboard Bottom Wing Riveted/ Right Wing Done!

Both the Left and Right Wings are Done! The electrical kit just arrived so that's next, followed by wing mounting on Friday....

Pausing for a break... You can see how we used safety wire, tied to the ceiling, to help peel the skin back. We worked from the top down and out, with the seam in the middle saved for last. Yes, this is a real pain, but it's done!

Udo and I are back at it. Here we are about to get started.

Left/Right Wing Access Panels Installed

I riveted the nutplates around the access holes then screwed the panels in place....Yeah, I know they'll have to come back off, but it completes the wing! *The middle access hole has the plate screwed into place, all nice and flush.

Autopilot Roll Servo Bracket Installed

Wow! I'm glad I waited to close up the wings... With the right outboard bottom skin still unriveted, I was able to order and install the wing servo bracket(black) from Trio Avionics. Even though I don't plan on installing the autopilot until after the plane is flying, I'm very happy that I was able to get the bracket installed now. This would have been a real pain to do if the wing had been sealed completely, much less if it was in flying condition. Installing the servo in the future should be a non event now that this is done. *You can control the autopilot functions through the EFIS with the new MGL avionics Odyssey...

Close up of the right wing bellcrank and servo bracket(black).

Right Inboard Bottom Skin Riveted

Special Thanks to Greg H. for helping out again! It would be impossible to do this right without two people. My arms are butchered from reaching in through all the lightening holes to buck the rivets. This is a very difficult area to access since the wing is getting closed up for the final time. Update: use 3 strips of safety wire, ran through a couple of holes, to help keep the skin peeled up while starting the first few rows...

Ava,4 checks over the work. She has given the "A -O.K."

Aileron Bell Cranks Installed

You have to ream out the AN4 bolt that passes through the bell crank. Be sure to put a little grease on the bushing before final install. Torque all nuts and bolts.

Cut Push Rods to Length

I had to use a hacksaw to cut the rods. Check the plans for the specific length. Be careful, there's not a lot of extra rod length.
I also deburred the ends, scuffed, and acid etched the larger rods. The small ones were already powder coated on the outside. Tape up one end on each rod and it's time to prime. (interior and exterior)

Final Riveting of Aileron Gap Seals and Flap Braces

Left Ail Gap Seal

Left Flap Brace

Right Ail Gap Seal

Right Flap Brace.

Drilled Out and Primed Aileron Gap Fairing and Flap Brace

Right Aileron Gap Fairing


Right Flap Brace

I Debbured, Scuffed, Dimpled as required, and Primed the parts.

Riveted the Top Right Skins

First, I clecoed the inboard skin on with the doubler underneath. Then, I moved on to the outboard skin. Remember to use hand seamers to slightly bend down the overlapping skin, where the edge shows, before you attach it to the skeleton. This will make for a nice flat finish when the skin is riveted on. Also, start riveting in the middle of each sheet and progress outward.

My neighbor Clint was nice enough to come over and help me rivet on both skins. Here is the nearly finished product. All I have left is the bottom row, which I can do myself with my pneumatic squeezer. Thanks a ton Clint!

Tip- tape the rivets in place, two or three at a time, to help the work progress quickly. These two sheets took about 4 hrs. to complete.

Riveted the Right Leading Edge Assembly

HAPPY NEW YEAR 2008!

Right Leading Edge all riveted together.

Inside, all primed and ready to be riveted to the main spar.

Test Fit Leading Edge and Fuel Tank Assembly

I did a quick test fit of everything before the disassembly. All of the seams look great. Now I will take the LE assembly and main skins apart and debur, dimple, countersink, and prime as required.

Final Drilled Top and Bottom Right Skins

Top View. I clecoed the skins on, making sure the outboard skin overlaps the inboard. I then drilled the skin holes out with a #41 reamer. Next, I marked and moved the clecos over and drilled all remaining holes.

Bottom view. Pretty basic stuff, just lots of work...

Mounted Right Skeleton to Jig/Fixture

I finished riveting the rear spar to the main ribs(not shown, See Left Wing for riveting details). Then I mounted the skeleton to the Jig or Fixture, as the pros call it.

I then trued, plumbed, and leveled everything up. This pic shows where I cut a notch in the bottom outboard support to allow for skin attachment.

Riveted Right Main Ribs to the Right Main Spar

Time to get the Right Wing up to speed with the Left Wing. The good news is that I've already prepped the majority of the right wing parts when I did the left wing.
First, I clecoed everything up. I Made sure I got all the ribs in their correct positions. Then I put protective tape on the doublers to prevent any damage while riveting.

Here, Greg H. and myself rivet all the main ribs to the main spar.
*Tip- Don't use an offset rivet shank. Use the straight one and just slightly bend the ribs to the side while riveting. You will get much better result and save time. Also, make sure you a have an air regulator inline with the rivet gun. It helps out, as you will need to adjust more pressure for the longer rivets inboard.

Drilling holes in Right Fuel Tank

Drilled out FT Top Edge holes to #19. They will later be dimpled to accept #8 screws.

Countersunk #40 holes, second row down from the top of the fuel tank. This row can not be dimpled due to the rear baffle going in place beneath the skin. I also deburred every hole, as necesssary, on the fuel tank.

Right Wing Fuel Tank Z Brackets

Aligning Fuel Tank and Z Brackets

After insuring there was zero gap b/w the FT and LE assembly, I Drilled out the outboard and inboard FT ribs. (See Left Wing for all the details on this step).

Inboard FT rib

Drilled out Right Rear FT Baffle and Forward Z brackets.

Final Drilled Right Tank

Getting this tank clecoed up is a real challenge. I only primed the two outside ribs.

Top view right fuel tank. You can see my reminder to use fuel tank dies when it comes time to dimple the skin. I plan on prosealing both tanks at the same time.

Drilled Right Leading Edge Assembly To Main Spar

I lined everything up, clecoed it, then match drilled all ribs with the main spar. It's not shown here, but remember to cleco the top and bottom skin to the spar before drilling. I had already started to disassemble everything before I remembered to snap a pic.