Ailerons get fitted to the Wing!

Happy Easter 2009! Here is the left aileron (inboard)getting fitted and temp bolted in place. I used the aileron bellcrank jig to help align the flight controls, then only minor adjustments were needed to the aileron pushrod.... A few turns to raise the aileron a bit. Looks good from what I can tell. I will get a second option from one of our techs at work to be sure though. Flap fitting is next...

Outboard view. *Tip- Use a dab of grease or a dot of super glue to help hold the washers in place while placing the bolts.

(Top inboard view)

Good News! Just got a call from the transport driver...... Finishing Kit will be here tomorrow!

Total Time To Build The Ailerons

2007 Time- 23Hrs.

2008 Time- 22Hrs. Total Aileron Build Time: 45 Hrs.

Left Aileron Complete!

My daughter Ava, helps me celebrate the completion of the last aileron!

Left Aileron Done!

Left Aileron Brackets Installed

Left Outboard. The bolts were installed and torqued. Be sure to put the washer on the nut side, where torque is applied. I also RTVed the inside leading edges and anywhere else I thought vibration might cause a crack.

Inboard side. Here the washers are placed on the nut side for the two bolts shown. For the third bolt, the washer goes on the bolt side, since it goes into a nutplate.

Working On The Left Aileron

Left Outboard Aileron. The top spar row has been driven with flush rivets and the ribs are being squeezed into place.(shown)
Thanks Again to Greg H. for helping me out with the top spar row, it's definitely a two man job .

Left Inboard Aileron. The top rib is getting riveted together. I used cherry max pop rivets on the last two holes near the trailing edge.

Left Aileron upside down. The top spar line has been riveted and the leading edge/counterweight row is next.

Right Aileron Complete!

After a considerable amount of work, the right aileron is Complete!!!

Installed Aileron Brackets and RTVed Joints

The right aileron is shown with the inboard bracket bolted and torqued in place. I followed this by RTVing any spot that I thought might produce a crack, from vibration, in the future.

Close up, right inboard aileron. The blob in the center is covering up the nutplate hole for the third bolt.

Outboard Right Aileron. Notice the RTV at the trailing edge?

Close up, right outboard aileron. The riveting is complete.

Closing up the Right Aileron

I finished closing up the right aileron by installing LP4-4 pop rivets on the bottom ,skins to spar, row of holes. Make sure you weigh the aileron down while finishing up. I used my bending brake, inside the blue quilt, to do the job. You must constantly check to ensure that the aileron is laying flat w/ no twist, when doing the final riveting.

RTVed Inside Trailing Edges

Here's a step I almost forgot to do. It isn't mentioned in the aileron directions, but I read about it somewhere deep in the vans aircraft manual a year or two ago. Squeeze a dab of RTV inbetween the stiffeners, at the trailing edge, before you rivet the assembly shut. The RTV acts as a bonding agent for the upper and lower stiffners along w/ the trailing edge skin. This in return, will help prevent any cracking caused by aircraft vibration. -Note: proseal is also an acceptible substitute for the RTV and Yes, the rudder and elevators were done as well.
Update on RTV-
Re: What is RTV? Randall Henderson wrote:>Matronics> BTW, Vans did some research and testing a while back about the theoretical problems with RTV's being corrosive to aluminum as a result of the acetic acid base. Turns out the acetic acid is in there for the purpose of making the stuff self-etching, and is intended to "flash off" when it cures, so it shouldn't be corrosive to aluminum, beyond etching itself into the material on application. This was supported with tests in an environmental chamber. When the curing is complete the "ammonia" smell from the acetic acid is gone and the corrosion would cease. There are non-acid cure RTV's available, such as Permatex Ultra-Blue, which don't corrode at all. -
So Yes, I'm using the normal "ammonia" type RTV but, I have a two-part expoy primer sprayed in between parts, so in my book, all is well.

Here, the rib is riveted together. I used pop rivets on the last two holes, due to the fact that I could not get my squeezer into the constricted space.

Riveting the Ailerons

Here the top row, (skins to spar), has been riveted together. (Right Aileron) . Riveting the top line is a real pain in the a**. - Special Thanks goes out to Greg H. for helping out with the riveting.

After the top row of rivets were installed I inserted and clecoed up the inboard and outboard ribs. Make sure you have the correct ribs aligned as shown in the plans.

Final Assembly of the Ailerons

I began the final aileron assembly by putting an LP4-3 pop rivet in the nose rib/counterweight. Then I riveted the nose rib to the main spar.



Next, I clecoed up the nose skin and top aft skin to the main spar. This was followed by riveting the top nose skins to the nose ribs. Make sure the nose skin overlaps the aft trailing skin.

Right Aileron clecoed. You leave the aft skin ribs off until the end

Left Aileron clecoed up. Here the nose rib is riveted to the spar and top nose skin.

Riveted Left Aileron Hinge Brackets

Outboard W414 Riveted in place. The two rivets near the bearing are 426 flush rivets.

Outboard W414. Watch the rivet call outs. The lower rivet next to the cleco is a 426 flush rivet. If you look closely you can see where I etched the part numbers before priming..

Riveted the Left W413 Aileron Hinge Bracket in place. -Notice that the lower rivet and the rivets near the bearing are 426 flush rivets. I also had to grind down and reprime the top of the assembly slightly to prevent any interference with the rear spar flange.

Opposite view. W413. two 426 rivets at the top, near the hole.

Primed Aileron and Flap Parts

Aileron and Flap parts after the acid etch, alodine, and two-part epoxy primer.




The past two days I have been prepping and priming a ton of parts and pieces. I have all remaining skins, aileron, and flap parts ready for final assembly.

Final Drilled All Aileron Skins

Top side. I used a #41 reamer to final drill the small holes.

Bottom side. Where both skins and spar meet you get to drill the holes out to #30. The very end holes, where the rib connects, are #40. Be Careful! I will now disassemble everything, debur, dimple, and prime.

Riveted Reinforcement Plates and Nutplate

Inboard Aileron spar. Installed rivets and nutplate. Be very careful with the orientation of all parts here. It gets confusing, so double check with the plans on everything before riveting.

I primed and riveted the reinforcement plates.

I had to grind a small hole in the bottom rib corner to prevent interference with the nutplate. I'm also using a "floating" AN3 nutplate here. (The center section of the nutplate moves around slightly to aid in bolt alignment). I will be priming all of the other parts as soon as I'm done final drilling everything.

Back Riveted the Stiffeners

Taped rivets in place.(I was out of back rivet tape, so I used scotch). I connected the back rivet set to the gun.

Pic after the riveting. (actual riveting took place on top of a steel plate). All of the stiffeners are done on both the left and right Ailerons.

I used my homemade bending brake to press the ailerons down to the recommended radius. I believe its 3/32".

Primed Aileron Skins and Stiffeners

I alumipreped, alodined, and primed aileron parts. I also primed the right fuel tank Z brackets.


Primed Aileron Skins.

Drilled Out Aileron Nose Ribs

I drilled out the aileron nose ribs for the left and right ailerons. After this was complete, I disassembled, scuffed, and deburred everything. I will be priming all the parts soon!

Drilling out the Aileron Counterweight

I placed a 2x6 underneath the nose rib, for support, and drilled out the leading edge skin to counterweight holes(Gold Clecos). After doing this on both ailerons, the #30 bit was toast, so I trashed it.


Here I am drilling out the nose rib flange to counterweight hole. The only way to do this is to go through the existing #30 spar hole.

Aileron Brackets Drilled

Left Inboard

Left Aileron Outboard

I almost forgot to countersink the #40 holes for the single nutplate and spar reinforcement plate. Here is a shot of the aileron bracket removed.